Shoe



E. COHEN March 22, 1938.

SHOE

Filed July 26, 1957 Znventor ED WERD COHEN Patented Mn. 22,1938

UNITED STATES' PATENT ori-ica p suon l Edward cohen, New York, N. Y. Application .my ze. 1931, semi No. 155,671

This invention relates to shoes and a method of 'making them.

In general, the 4object of the invention is to provide a shoe which is of improved construction and appearance4 and is comfortable when worn.

Another object of the invention is to provide a shoe which has a highly exible forward portion and yet is of comparatively rugged construction whereby the shoe is well adapted for'use as a'walking shoe. j

A further object of the invention is the provision `of a shoel having an upperand a single sole stitched together, except atthe heel, in a novel manner whereby to eliminate turning of the upper or the use of separate welt strips or rends. Another object of the invention is to provide a simple method of making shoes of the character described above.

These objects of the invention and other objects which might hereinafter appear will be fully understood from the following descriptionl considered with reference to nthe accompanyingl drawing illustrating a preferred embodiment of the invention.

` In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of ashoe constructed in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal sectional view of the shoe, on a larger scale, of the rear part of the shoe;

Fig. 3 is Fig. 1;'

Figs. 4 and 5' are perspective views of strips of material utilizedv in making. the shoe in accordance with the present invention;

a sectional view on the line 8--8 'of e Fig. 6 is a bottom plan view of parts of theV shoe assembled on a last, illustrating the method of making the shoe. l Referring' to the drawing in detail, the shoe `III as here shown, is.a'low shoe and comprises a single sole I2, a heel Il and an upper I8.' 4 As illustrated in Fig.

shank piecev I8 which extends over and covers -the inner surface of a' sole I2 from substantially theball line of the shoe to the rear edge oi' the sole at the heel. $aid shank piece includes 'a' metal stiiener 20 and in other respects may be substantially the same as shank pieces commonly utilized in turned shoes for stiifening the u Animportant feature of the present invention 2, s/aid shoe also comprises a' shank and heel portions thereof. The usual sock -is the construction of the upper I6 and the manner of attachment thereof 'with sole I2. Said upper comprises a. main part 26 composedoi any suitable shoe upper material, such as suede, calfskin, fabric, or combinations of such materials, 5 or any other suitable material utilized for shoe uppers. Said upper also includes a lower marginal part 28 which extends completely around 1 the shoe. Marginal part 28 is composed of sturdy material and is preferably thicker than the ma- 10 teria] of upper portion 26. For this purpose, I prefer to utilize thin sole leather such as that usedv as welting and cut so that the grain side of the leatheris retained in the material for disposition on the outer surface of the shoe. 15 yMarginal part 28 is constituted `by a strip 3l! which extends from a point 32 at one side of the shoe. preferably ,Just rearwardly of the heel breast, forwardly around the toe of the shoe, and then rearwardly to a similar point 32 at the o -other side of the shoe, and by a strip 3d which extends around the heel part of they shoe with its ends in abutting relation to the .ends of strip t0. As Shownvin Figs. 3 and 4, strip 3U is provided with an outwardly directed flange 36, pref- ,5

erably pre-formed, disposed substantially at right angles to the body of the strip. Said ange may be formed in any suitable manner as by a molding operation.

As sliown in Figs. 1 and 2, strip 34 has its lower edge turned inwardly beneath the heel seat and isv tacked in position together with counter stiffener 2| to the rear marginal edge portion of shank piece I8.' Sole I2 i's attached to upper 40 I8 and more particularly to the flange 36 `of strip 80 by aline oi through and through stitching 48, said stitching being co-extensive with strip 30 and extending from point 32 forwardly around the toe' of the shoe and then rearwardly to a 45 similar point at the other side of the shoe. The rear. portion of sole I2 is subjected to the usual heel seat forming operation and then heel Il is attached in any suitable manner which need not be specifically described, as it is not per se '50 part of the present invention.

In making a shoe of the present construction, the part 28 of the upper I8 is cut to shape and then strips 38 and 34 are stitched tothe lower marginal edge portion of part 26 completely there- 55 around. In actual practice, strip 30 is pre-formed with its outwardly directed flange 36, and strip 34 is preferably of the desired width whereby to eliminate the necessity for trimming said strip. When a counter stiiener is utilized, said stiiener is stitched to the upper. Then, as shown in Fig.

6, the upper is assembled on a last L together with the shank piece i8 and its metal stiffener 20, and the outer marginal edge portion of strip 34 is inturned in overlying relation to said shank piece together with theinturned edge portion of counter 24 and are secured to said shank piece in any suitable manner as by tacks 42, the ends of which are clinched against the last bottom. The forward part of the upper is heldaga'inst the sides of the last with the flange 36 of strip 30 substantially flush with the bottom of the last. Then the sole I2 is laid over the bottom of the last/and cemented to the surface of flange 36 and if preferred said solefmay also be cemented to the surface of shank piece I8. After the cement has set suciently to retain the parts in position said sole is stitched to ange 36 while the parts are on the last. 'Ihen the heel seat is formed at the rear part of the sole, and heel I4 is attached in the usual way. The last is then removed and the shoe is then subjected to a re-lasting operation,

such as that employed in makingA turned shoes.

For this purpose, there is utilized a last somewhat larger than the last used in the flrst lasting operation. In re-lasting the 'shoe, the upper is shaped to the last and the upper is treated in accordance with the usual process of re-lasting shoes to smoothen the upper, vremove wrinkles, etc. After the re-lasting operation the shoe may be completed in the usual way- Thus, it is seen that the construction and method herein disclosed are Well adapted to accomplish the sevenal objects ofthe present invention. While the present shoe is illustrated as a ladys shoe, the invention may be utilized in connection with other shoes. It will be understood that certain changes in the constructionV and method will occur to those skilled in the art in view of the present disclosure. For example, the shoe may be a high shoe instead of a low shoe and instead Aef utilizing a shank piece extending to the ball line of the shoe, as in a turned shoe, I may utilize instead a heel piece which covers substantially the heel portion of the sole on the inner surface thereof and is sufliciently large to secure thereto strip 34 and counter 24, but does not extend a substantial distance forwardly of the heel breast. Other variations in the construction may be made.' It will also be understood that unless otherwise specified, the steps of the method need not be performed precisely in the order in which they are recited, and that unless otherwise specied one or more steps may be performed without the others or with the equivalent of the specific Ysteps which may be omitted. Flnally, it is to be understood that the present invention is not to be Hunted by the preceding specific disclosure as to the construction of the shoe or the method of making the same, except as may be required by the appended claims considered with reference to the prior art. Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: 1.i A shoe comprising an upper, a sole, a shank piece, and a heel, said upper havingamain part extending downwardly from the foot opening and terminating inwardly of the outer edge of said sole, and a lower marginal part including a forward strip portion extending from the rear part of the shoe at one side thereof forwardly around the toe and rearwardly to the rear part of the shoe at its other side, said strip portion being composed of welting material and having its upper edge stitched to said main upper part above said sole and having a lower out-turned edge portion stitched to the marginal edge of said sole, outwardly of the adjacent edge of said main upper part, and a rear strip portion of welting material stitched to the main upper part and inturned and secured to said shank piece at the heel seat.

2. A shoe comprising an upper, a sole, and a heel, said upper having'a main part extending downwardly from the foot opening and terminating above said sole inwardly of the outer sole edge, and a lower marginal part including a forward strip portion extending from the rear part of the shoe at one side thereof forwardly around the toe and rearwardly to the rear part of the shoe at its other side, said strip portion being thicker than the material of said main upper part and having its'upper edge stitched to said main upper part above said sole and having an out-turned edge portion stitched to the marginal edge of said sole outwardly beyond the adjacent edge of the upper, and a rear strip portion extending between the ends of said front strip portion around the heel part of the shoe, said rear strip portion being thicker than the material of said main upper part and attached to said main part and having a lower inturned portion secured in ,position at the heel seat.

EDWARD COHEN. 

